Au Restaurant Magnifique

Melisse. Where do I begin? This two Michelin starred restaurant, the only one in the LA area other than such Wolfgang Puck owned establishments as Spago, has haunted my dreams (literally, I’ve had dreams about it), and my taste buds since I first had the privilege of dining there on my 21^st birthday, and again on my parents’ anniversary a couple of weeks later (What? Like I’m gonna let them go to a TWO MICHELIN STAR place without me!). I can say with absolutely no hesitation that Melisse provided me with the two best meals of my life.  They were so good, in fact, that I’m going to take the time to review every single dish I’ve eaten there.

First, the amuse bouche. Being summer, Head Chef Josiah Citrin was in a tomato kind of mood.  He gave us three separate, but equally good dishes, all showcasing the full spectrum of tomato-ness that one can experience. We were served cucumber and tomato gelee; a cherry tomato wrapped in a thin layer of goat cheese which was then rolled in crushed pistachios; and what I can only describe as a pouch of tomato juice, which you place in your mouth, and the second you apply pressure to it with your tongue, the thin skin breaks and it explodes, releasing a rush of intense tomato-y perfection. These three amuse bouches were repeated the second time we came here, and I loved them just as much on round two.

Now that my bouche had been sufficiently amused I was ready for my first course. I scanned the tasting menu and saw one word that made my mouth water and my pupils dilate… truffles. The dish was lobster bolognese with freshly shaved black truffle. (Remember when I said I had dreams about eating here? This was the dish I dreamed about)  If you think it sounds good, multiply your expectations by about a thousand, and you might get some idea about just how mind-numbingly delicious it is. The second time I ate here I opted to try something new for my first course. I saw another word that triggered a similar physiological response…Uni. This dish –  grilled cuttlefish with uni and sea urchin broth, though I have never dreamed about it – was equally as good as the lobster bolognese, and if you take into account the wine pairing (2003 Chateux Talbot Caillou Blanc), which has become without question my favorite white wine, it might even be better.

My second course was the same on both occasions— sweetbreads. I love, and I mean LOVE sweetbreads. There’s nothing quite like a big hunk of thymus gland to make your day a little brighter. Before going to Melisse however, every sweetbread I had eaten was battered and fried, which is good, don’t get me wrong, but you don’t get two Michelin stars by throwing crap in a fryolator and dumping some beef jus on top. No my friends, these sweetbreads were…special. They were roasted in enough butter to make Julia Child blush and served with a little bit of ever-so-slightly-cooked tomato, adding just the right amount of sweetness and acidity, and some bread to sop up the pool of that heavenly liquid left behind when the sweetbreads were all gone. Chef Josiah, you’re a naughty boy.  

I’m only going to focus on one of the main courses I had at Melisse.  Not to belittle the other; it  was perhaps the best chicken dish I’ve ever eaten, but it was nothing compared to the lamb chop with lamb sausage and “ratatouille” that I ordered on my second dinner there. Besides, who cares about chicken when I can describe the perfectly cooked carcass of Mary’s ex-school companion? Sadly, there are no words in the English language that can perfectly convey just how good this dish is. It’s beyond impeccable; it surpasses perfection; it surmounts the sublime.  In order to have even a modicum of understanding as to how magnificent this dish is, one has to taste it for him or herself…any description I provide, no matter how well-worded or passionate, will unavoidably fall short.

Happy endings? Yes please! No, not that kind, I’m talking about dessert you pervert! The first dessert I had at Melisse is perfectly described just by saying its name, “chocolate chocolate chocolate.” Three small chocolate desserts on one plate makes for one of the richest things that has ever graced my tongue; it’s like licking Donald Trump without the aftertaste. The second dessert I had was the toffee pudding. This is the single best dessert that I have ever eaten, looked at, or heard distant rumors of. Nothing even comes close.

Everything about Melisse is, for me at least, the ideal restaurant. The food is indescribable, the ambiance is elegant yet surprisingly laid back, and the staff is personable and unpretentious. I need to make a special mention of the Sommelier, Brian Kalliel. The self-proclaimed “professional drinker” came to our table and personally poured and described every single wine pairing. He was hilarious, extremely knowledgeable, and has a way of interacting with you that makes you feel as though you are the only person there. Melisse is without question my favorite restaurant in Southern Californa. From the food, to the atmosphere, to the service, Melisse is much more than just a simple a restaurant, it’s an experience.